Monthly Archives: June 2007

How to get to Gulmarg?

You don’t get to Gulmarg from somewhere; you go to Srinagar, the summer capital of Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir, and then drive up to Gulmarg.

Getting to Srinagar

Getting to Srinagar is not a big deal – its relatively well connected to major Indian cities like Delhi and Mumbai (Bombay). There are regular flights. Other means are taking a train from Delhi to Jammu Tawi, the winter capital of the J&K State. And from Jammu you could take a Taxi or a bus to Srinagar. Alternatively, one could drive all the way to Srinagar from Delhi, using a personal car, a Taxi, or even a hired minivan like Tata Sumo, which works out well if you are in a group. In winters, you need to be careful about driving between Jammu and Srinagar as mud slides can render the National Highway No. 1 blocked, and you may get stranded for days sometimes. But what the heck – that itself is an experience. Imagine spending a night or two in Ramban or Batote, etc. – small towns situated next to river Chenab, as the highway meanders through the Himalayan ranges into the Kashmir valley.

Check some pictures that detail the travel between Punjab and Srinagar – covering the section of Jammu to Srinagar in detail

Some flight details:

Jet Airways (www.jetairways.com)
Kingfisher Airlines (www.flykingfisher.com)
Indian Airlines (www.indian-airlines.nic.in)
Air Deccan (www.airdeccan.net)
SpiceJet (www.spicejet.com)

Booking well in advance online can get you return fares in the range of Rs5000 for first three, and about Rs3,500 for the last two budget airlines.

Security checks for flight to and from Srinagar are an experience. Being perhaps one of the most vulnerable air sectors, its actually pretty secure. Security is air-tight.

Getting to Gulmarg  from Srinagar

The drive from Srinagar is about 2-3 hours (55km) – depending on which part of Srinagar do you start. On a busy morning day, it can easily take up to an hours just to get to the outskirts of sprwaling Srinagar. Its best to leave in early morning hours.

Its fine to drive yourself, if you are used to driving on Indian roads. Else, best is to take a taxi cab (more commonly referred to as Taxi in India). There are JKRTC buses that go to Gulmarg also, but as a tourist you can easily avoid that.

You can take a pre-paid taxi directly from Srinagar airport. Sample fare is about Rs1,250 for a day trip. If you book in advance, it’s about Rs900.

The taxi stand is in front of the J&K TDC (Jammu & Kashmir Tourism Development Corporation) Tourist Reception Centre [Telephone: +91-194- 245-2527).

Important for day visitors: When a friend visited Gulmarg in summer, as he drove in, he got a rude shock when the car was not allowed to go past into much of the town. What the government official at the barrier wanted to see was a confirmed letter of reservation in one of the Gulmarg hotels. So if you are going there on a day trip, either (manage somehow and) carry that letter or you can park the car at the car/taxi/local bus stand and then you would either have to walk your way, or get on the back of a pony. Which would probably be true even if you wanted to take an on-the-spot room in one of the hotels. Or better, just be prepared to be greeted to such whimsical direction/instruction from the local authorities. They can try very well, but with certain things, they just can’t seem to make any sense. Or, there may be other motives that may be working behind the scenes – like probably an intention to maximise the income for the pony wallahs.

Ponderings – Paradise Revisited

Paradise revisited
 
J Kamath returns to Gulmarg and is enamoured by the sights and sounds of the place, which was the favourite haunt of the Mogul Emperor Jehangir.
  Nov 13, 2005

 

A jumble of emotions twirled in my head as I boarded the bus at Srinagar’s Balmotta terminus, that was to take me to Gulmarg. I had visited this place nearly a decade and a half ago, and nourished intoxicating memories of it— tall trees that surely touched the sky, the delicious nip of the chill air, snowy peaks etched against the blue sky and the enduring warmth of the people. Would Gulmarg still be the pristine place where one yearns to return? Or would the intervening years have now reduced it to a seething eyesore by the quick buck kind of development that has affected many of its counterparts like Manali and Dalhousie?

Three days and many walks later, I realised that my worries were unfounded and Gulmarg still retains the reputation of a place where nature tries hard to please the wayward tourist. Gulmarg, located around 52 km away from Srinagar, was originally called Gaurimarg by the shepherds, and was the favourite haunt of the Mogul Emperor Jehangir, who came here to collect plants for his gardens.

Today, what drives most day tripping tourists from Srinagar, is the newly inaugurated cable car on the slopes of that majestic deodar covered mountain Apaharwat. And that’s where we headed. The serpentine queues at the ticket counters quite disheartened us as it threaded its way slowly, but what kept us from whining about it was the huge board near the entrance which announced that — when complete— this cable car would be the highest in the world! Eminently affordable, we found travelling on this to be an exhilarating experience; while the gondola lazily continues its upward journey. Sumptuous views of the valley gently unfold, like in one of those slow motion movie scenes.

After travelling for about four kilometres, the journey terminates on a huge plateau and tourists are permitted to spend some time here. The solemnity of the cable car suddenly gives way to a carnival like atmosphere with almost everybody being noisily delighted with their first glimpse of snow.

The following day we decided on a trek to Khilinmarg, which lay on the northern slopes of Apaharwat. It was a tough walk and had it been not for the phenomenal scenery, we would have retraced our steps for the comforts of our hotel. The grasslands quickly gave way to snow, but we kept prodding on with stoicism.

It took us well over four hours to complete the trek and the cold had taken its toll; we could feel our feet slowly ballooning in our shoes and the chatter in our teeth did not seem to stop at all, but our guide Adbul assured us that a sip from the local tea they call ‘noonchai’ is sure to make us feel warmer and lead the way to a tintop hotel. The pink concoction made from tea leaves, baking soda and salt took a while to get used to, but when it sank into our innards, the smiles returned.

Gulmarg’s claim to fame also rests on the Golf course, designed by the legendary Peter Thomson, and is believed to be one of the highest in the world. Their office is a heritage building in its own right too. The huge boulder strewn stream, that is visible from most viewpoints in Gulmarg, is the Ferozpur Nullah. The fish here is known to be a culinary favourite and it is every angler’s dream to try his luck in its turbulent waters.

As per the edict of the tourism authorities, the roofs of all buildings in Gulmarg have to be painted dark green— we found this to be a very practical decision as the concrete here effortlessly blends into the verdant landscape. The only exception to this rule is the temple of Hari Singh; of unknown antiquity and situated on a small hill, its solemn bells could be heard ringing all over the valley. And few metres away is the graveyard dedicated to all those brave English men and women who sought adventure and fortune in faraway lands; we were rather intrigued by a tombstone with inscriptions in chaste Sanskrit.

On our penultimate day here, Abdul suggested that we walk to his village Tangmarg about 13 kilometres away, as buses to Srinagar were far more frequent from there. Being downhill, it would not be a strain on our atrophied muscles and we were sure to enjoy the scenery. We eagerly accepted his offer and soon found ourselves gently dodging wispy mists amidst century old trees. And deep in one of these dark woods, we stumbled across the dargah of Baba Reshi, a sufi saint who inhabited this area a few centuries ago. We paid our respects to the great man and hoped that we would return. And local fore has it that Baba Reshi always answers the prayers of his devotees ….

FACT FILE

Accommodation: Hotel Highlands Park, Yemberza, Saheen and Zumzum.

Tip: It is advisable to hire a guide for the trek to Khilinmarg.

Things to consider

If you are going in the peak season, then it is advisable that you book accommodation prior to your visit to Gulmarg.

While you are in Gulmarg, you can enjoy both vegetarian and Non-vegetarian cuisine. If you eat non -vegetarian, then do try a traditional dish, called Rogan Josh.

Safety
Though Gulmarg is very safe for tourists, it is advisable that you update yourself with the current law and order situation in the area, before you visit Gulmarg.

Gulmarg is very cold, so make sure you carry heavy woolens with you, while you tour Gulmarg.

Gulmarg Biosphere Reserve

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Location: 48-km Southwest Of Srinagar, Kashmir Region, J&K
Coverage Area: 180-sq-kms
Main Attraction: Musk Deer
Best Time To Visit: Mammal Viewing – September To March
Bird Viewing – March To May

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The reserve area is located at a distance of 48-km from Srinagar , to its southwest. It is famous for retaining several rare and endangered species such as the musk deer, and a rich and varied avifauna. 
Flora
The area holds a rich cover of vegetation, the dominant forest consisting of conifers, which account for over 90%. The principal species are Cedrus Deodara, Pinus Griffithii, Abies Pindrow, Aesculus Indica, etc. The major shrubs are Indigofera Heterantha, , Sorbaria Tomentosa, etc. The ground cover over here is also very rich and Dicotyledonus herbs dominate the area, comprising of Rumex Patientia, etc.
Fauna
Nature has gifted this Biosphere Reserve with multiple species of rare, endangered and protected species. The main species found over here are Hangul, Musk Deer, Serow, Brown Bear, Leopard, Black Bear and Red Fox, etc.
Avifauna
The area houses a good population of pheasants and upland birds apart from other species, both resident and migratory. The common birds are Griffon Vulture, Monal, Snow Cock, Koklas, Blue Rock Pigeon, Kashmir Roller, European Hoopoe, Jungle Crow, etc. 

WHERE TO STAY
Tourist and private accommodation are readily available in Gulmarg. There is also a camping site available near the reserve area. FOR RESERVATIONS CONTACT: The Chief Wildlife Warden, Jammu & Kashmir State, Tourist Reception Centre, Srinagar -190001, (Kashmir.)